Brunello di Montalcino: The 2012 Brunellos and 2011 Riservas

BY IAN D’AGATA |

Every once in a while, when visiting a specific wine region, I taste so many good bottles that I find myself thinking I might just turn in my author’s pen and start making wine (clearly, such dangerous thoughts last only a second or two before I come back to my senses). Most recently, this happened during my tastings of the 2012 Brunellos, when I tried one delicious example after another. Even more impressive, the 2012 vintage for Brunello stands out for its consistently high quality. I found more good to outstanding examples than in any past vintage and far fewer unfocused, unbalanced and high-alcohol wines.

Giacomo Bartolommei of Caprili

Giacomo Bartolommei of Caprili

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The superb 2012 Brunello vintage represents a conundrum: a hot, very dry year that produced a large number of wines in a cooler-climate style. Aromas and flavors are ripe in 2012, but the wines also have the acidity and steely tannic structure to evolve slowly and gracefully in bottle