Barolo 2005: Location, Location, Location

by Antonio Galloni

My late November trip to Piedmont was full of surprises. I encountered two massive snowstorms in the span of three days, the second of which forced me to abandon my car on the hills of La Morra! The roads were virtually desolate, and the sight of these pristine hillside vineyards covered in snow instilled a surreal sense of calm in my otherwise jam-packed schedule. As usual, I spent most of my time evaluating the 2005 Barolos, but also had a chance to get a sneak preview of the 2006s, 2007s and 2008s. Once again it looks like Piedmont (Barolo in particular) is in the midst of string of excellent to profound vintages that may in time rival 1996-2001. Many wines I tasted from barrel were simply thrilling. Unfortunately it has become increasingly clear that producers will have a hard time selling these wines through to the final consumer. The global recession and string of successful vintages is a recipe for pricing pressure on the downside, something I am already seeing as aggressive retailers in the US discount their remaining stocks of 2004 Barolos. In addition, consumers around the world are trading down to more affordable wines, and also drinking bottles they already own. While the environment will be challenging for the growers and the trade, Piedmont fans will have no shortage of great wines to consider over the next few years.