1999 Morey-Saint-Denis (M)
France
Morey Saint Denis
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Romain Lignier compared his 2000s to his 1997s. "These two hugely ripe vintages brought our highest grape sugars to date, up to 13.5% for the crus," he told me in November, "but the 2000s are characterized by fresher fruit aromas, with the '97 showing more roasted ripeness and licorice. Still, the maturity of 2000 hasn't necessarily brought the terroir and certainly '99 is truer to the soil," he added. The 2000s, which had not yet been racked at the time of my visit, will be bottled between January and April of 2002, or about three or four months earlier than the '99s. As I tasted the highly concentrated '99s, I wondered whether they would eventually absorb their rather heavy load of new oak.
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Romain Lignier carried out a strict green harvest in '99, limiting the crop to six or seven bunches per vine. Grape sugars were in the very ripe 12.5% to 13% range, said Lignier, "but 2000 was even riper." In fact, 1999 is a bit like '96, he noted, but with lower acidity. "A year of pure fruit and great early appeal" is how he described the '99s, while the '98s are more austere and perhaps more ageworthy.
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