2014 Pouilly-Fuissé Madigral
France
Pouilly Fuissé, Mâconnais
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
00
2020 - 2027
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This estate in the sleepy village of Pierreclos is run by Frantz Chagnoleau and his wife Carolin Gon, who is also responsible for making the Héritiers du Comte Lafon wines. The couple own 8.4 hectares of vines, including 3.5 in the Mâcon-Villages Clos Saint-Pancras, farming organically. Chagnoleau is a big fan of demi-muids from Stockinger.
Chagnoleau told me that the 2015 vintage "is not our style." Like so many of his colleagues in the southern Mâconnais, he prefers "the expressiveness of cooler years" but notes that the 2015s will be flattering and easy to drink. "We kept more CO2 but the wines are still more about Chardonnay than about terroir," he told me, adding that the later terroirs did not suffer as much from drought in 2015.
Chagnoleau, whose first commercial harvest was 2010 (he sold his fruit from a single hectare of Saint-Véran to Dominique Lafon in 2009), told me that 2014 is his best vintage to date. The '14s I tasted in September were bottled last November.
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