2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Combe Aux Moines 1er Cru
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2024 - 2035
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Fourrier described 2012 as "the iron fist in a velvet glove," and indeed these wines came across as very ripe and lush following his brilliant 2013s. A few showed an almost liqueur-like quality, but the best wines here have the energy and concentration to support long life in bottle.
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I tasted this year with Jean-Marie's wife Vicki, as Jean-Marie had just come down with flu and was merciful enough not to expose me on the first day of my Burgundy tour. The 2012s here are hugely rich and concentrated--no surprise, as this domain benefits from a high percentage of very old vines, and it was the old vines that were most affected by coulure and millerandage during the difficult flowering conditions. Crop levels were off 50% to 60%, said Vicki, and the harvest was done in four days flat. There was literally no selection necessary, she told me, thanks to the tiny, well-aerated grapes that were concentrated by a north wind during favorable late-season weather. As the malolactic fermentations finished last spring, the wines had been racked into cuves during the two weeks prior to my November visit. Not incidentally, Fourrier's 2011s have also turned out brilliantly.
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2017 - 2032
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Like many of his colleagues, Jean-Marie Fourrier was tormented by 2012. Yields are down 50-60% across the range, which puts some of the wines into barely commercially sensible quantities. There are just 1.5 barrels of the Petits Vougeots, 1 of the Goulots and a measly half-barrel of the Champeaux, none of which Fourrier wanted to show for obvious reasons. Sadly, the oldest vines were flowering when the weather was at its worst, so they were the hardest hit. Stylistically the 2012s resemble the 2010s, but with more ripeness and less acidity. I tasted all of the 2012s from tank, just before their scheduled bottling in December 2013. Readers may also want to check out the wines Jean-Marie Fourrier is making under his négociant label, which are reviewed separately.
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