2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru

Wine Details
Place of Origin

France

Gevrey Chambertin

Burgundy

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Pinot Noir

Reviews & Tasting Notes

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Arnaud Mortet vinified on his own in 2006, and despite the challenges of the year he has some highly successful wines in the works. He's also quite enthusiastic about the young 2007s, which he describes as denser than the 2006s. Mortet, who told me he has been doing less extraction in general than his late father Denis, vinified for finesse in 2006 due to the hail, which he said was more of an issue on the Brochon side of the village. "The hail gave more aggressive tannins; it resulted in less phenolic maturity. And I didn't want to make dry wines," he explained. The grand crus here are still aged in 100% new oak, but the village wines get more like 60%. With 2006, Mortet has made the decision to combine his various parcels of Gevrey villages into a regular and an old-vines bottling.

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The late Denis Mortet's son Arnaud vinified the 2005s with his father, and then was assisted with the 2006s by Claire Forestier, who was previously at Domaine Bertagna and who subsequently left Domaine Mortet in December. Arnaud, who looks even younger than his 25 years, described 2005 as an early-harvested vintage with "excellent ripeness and enormous material." He pointed out that his father had already changed his style of vinification somewhat as of 2004, working "more in finesse"-that is, doing less pigeage and seeking to make less tannic wines that are more expressive of their terroir. Although he does not plan to make any radical changes, beginning with 2006 Arnaud is experimenting with a percentage of one-year-old barrels for some of the "little wines." But the 2005s I tasted in November were all aging in 100% new barriques. None of the wines had been racked, and some barrels had not yet finished their malos. (Martine's Wines, Novato, CA) Also recommended: Marsannay Les Longeroies (85), Fixin (85).