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Anthony Thévenet

Anthony Thévenet is tucked away discretely in Villié-Morgon. Thévenet is a winemaker that Josh Raynolds has covered on Vinous, but this represented my introduction. I completely understand why Josh was so enthused by Thévenet - these wines quietly blew me away. Thévenet, who learned his chops at Georges Descombes and Jean Foillard, established his own domaine in 2013 upon inheriting three hectares of vines from his grandfather. Thévenet vinifies using carbonic maceration, and ages his wine in demi-muids and used barrels for around seven months with no SO2 until bottling, meaning that wines have less than 15mg/L of sulfites.

Before the tasting, we drove up to inspect the vines that Thévenet vinifies separately for his Morgon Cuvée Centenaire. I was astonished when he told me that these gnarly vines are around 150 years old - surely some of the most venerable in France, and they are still going strong! The 2017 Morgon Cuvée Centenaire was pixelated, crystalline and complex. As I state in my review, it will give a Grand Cru from the Côte d’Or a run for its money. Just 1,200 bottles are produced, but try to grab one. Eventually vines do become unproductive, which means that Thévenet had to uproot the 90-year-old vines that went into his Cuvée Julia with plans to replant them next year. Readers should also look out for his wonderful 2017 Chénas Vieilles Vignes, which overcame hail damage to produce a very cohesive and harmonious wine that should age extremely well in bottle.

From Back For More Beaujolais (Aug 2021) by Neal Martin

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2020 Beaujolais-Villages

Color: Red

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