Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
This past December seemed an ideal time for me to taste a vertical collection of the Domaine des Lambrays’ historic Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays going back to the 1960s. Under the steady hand of widely respected estate manager/winemaker Thierry Brouin, the Clos des Lambrays has been restored to Grand Cru status after decades of neglect.
France: Bordeaux, featured
Sailing into port this week is Malartic-Lagravière. Resurrected by the Bonnie family since the late-1990s, it has become one of the finest Pessac-Léognan estates. This piece examines its nautical-tinged history, present techniques and reviews both recent and mature vintages.
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
Usually we either read about Burgundies as new releases or as older, mature wines. It is harder to find impressions on Burgundies in the 7-10 year-old range that are both drinking well and possibly available in the market or on restaurant lists at less than the stratospheric prices the most coveted Burgundies command these days. For those reasons I thought it might be interesting to feature Christophe Roumier’s 2012 Clos de la Bussière as this week’s Cellar Favorite.
Netherlands, Vinous Table
Talented head chef Remco Kuijpers is a big attraction wherever he decides to cook, but fact is, just about everything about Restaurant Fitzgerald in Rotterdam (in the historic and pretty Oude Haven) will impress you.
Spain’s northern, Atlantic Ocean–influenced winegrowing zones were virtually unknown to most wine lovers only a decade ago, but things have changed dramatically. The popularity of some of Spain’s high-quality red wines and racy whites from the area continues a steep upward trajectory.
I cannot recommend “Beware Of The Dogs” highly enough. This debut album confirms the major young talent evidenced in “Boys Will Be Boys” in 2017. Go listen. Go think. Go see Donnelly on her current tour.
France: Bordeaux, featured
Sauternes might not be fashionable at the moment; however, the wines remain quite brilliant and often represent great value. The first in a series of verticals looks at one of the finest properties, Château Suduiraut, with one of the most comprehensive verticals you will ever read spanning three centuries.
Italy: Tuscany, featured
The 2014 Brunellos and the 2013 Riservas are polar opposites, the products of one of the most challenging vintages in memory (2014) and a very good, classic year (2013). And yet, both vintages have something to offer, if in completely different ways; the much-better-than-expected 2014s boast early appeal and can be enjoyed now while the 2013 Riservas mature in the cellar.
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Loire
You might well assume that last week’s 1990 Moelleux Goutte d’Or from Foreau constitutes the best Vouvray that I have ever drunk. There are a couple of challengers, Marc Brédif’s 1921 Vouvray Moelleux being one of them, albeit much older.
Japan, Vinous Table
This was a fabulous yakiniku set meal that delivered everything you could wish for: mouthwatering meat from the finest wagyu, stunning presentation and a bit of theatre.