France, Vinous Table
Le Coquillage is the restaurant founded by superchef Olivier Roellinger in the high-class Maisons de Bricourt hotel complex on Brittany’s fashionable coast. Today, it’s Roellinger’s son, Hugo, who is at the stove in this temple of Breton cuisine especially devoted to seafood.
France: Alsace, featured
Alsace has always produced some of the world’s greatest white wines. The good news is that it ismaking some increasingly exciting red wines, most of them from Pinot Noir, although recently some wineries have also planted small plots of Syrah and even St. Laurent as well. In nearby Luxembourg a number of privately owned domaines are also making outstanding wines too, hence their inclusion in this article.
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux
Today, Pichon-Baron is one of Bordeaux’s most popular wines, but it took many years, hard work and investment to get there. This articles traces its ascent from under-performer to Left Bank superstar via one of the most comprehensive verticals ever conducted at the château, an objective examination of the last four decades and beyond, plus a look at its sister property, Château Pibran.
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United States: California
Early one morning Philip Norfleet, Director of the Napa Valley Reserve, and I were discussing a series of events and tastings for 2018 and 2019. A crazy idea flashed across my mind. I asked Norfleet if I could blend a barrel of wine at the Reserve to auction off for charity. “Let me ask around,” he said. “I will get back to you soon.” A few hours later I had my response…
Cellar Favorite: 2005 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
There aren’t too many values left in Burgundy. Frédéric Mugnier’s Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru is one of them. Let’s be clear, Clos de la Maréchale is not an inexpensive wine by any means, but it does offer tremendous character and plenty of Mugnier finesse, especially in the best vintages.
Italy, Vinous Table
Founded in 1970, San Domenico was one of the first restaurants in Italy to introduce the concepts of refined service and cuisine that remain cornerstones of the dining experience today. Much of the food culture in Emilia-Romagna centers around trattoria-style food. Not that there is anything wrong with that, as well-executed versions of the classics are immensely satisfying. But at San Domenico, you will eat la grande cucina.
France: Bordeaux, featured
The 2016 Bordeaux vintage was praised to high heavens during en primeur, but the real test of quality is once the wines are finished and bottled. Is it truly one of the great modern-day vintages?
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
The largest single owner of land in Clos de Vougeot is making some of its best wines today. Director François Labet’s special bottling from vines planted in 1910 has been an essence of this legendary grand cru in recent years.
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Larcis Ducasse remains one of the truly great, reasonably priced wines of Bordeaux. I was once again reminded of that when I tasted the 2005 recently. Almost shockingly young, tannic and tightly wound for a wine of its age, the 2005 is positively stellar.