Vinous Table: L’Express, Montréal, Canada
Canada, Vinous Table
, Oct 2019
A much-loved Montréal classic, L’Express is one of the most authentic and best French food bistros you are ever likely to find outside of France. It boasts a lively, jovial atmosphere and a wine list with over 11,000 bottles, many of them available at very fair prices.
The Saar’s Deliciously Diverse 2017s
Germany: Saar, featured
, Oct 2019
In 2017, the better Saar Rieslings benefited from their region’s generally cooler, breezier conditions vis-à-vis the Mosel proper, to achieve mouthwatering ripeness while avoiding unwelcome botrytis.
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Beyond Wine: Album Review of All Mirrors – Angel Olsen
Beyond Wine
, Oct 2019
All Mirrors is Angel Olsen’s best album in what has, until now, been a slow-burn career, evolving from her lo-fi roots to a cavernous, lush sound.
Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle
featured, France: Burgundy
, Oct 2019
The 2016 Burgundy vintage is infamous for the devastating late spring frosts and inclement weather. Yet the surviving fruit enjoyed a blissful second half of the growing season. The reds are small in quantity but supposedly big in quality. So how do they shape up when assessed blind?
Cellar Favorite: 1975 Egon Müller Riesling Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese
germany: Mosel, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2019
Though the bottle is still on the other side of the room on its way to the dining table, I instantly register that it is a) exceedingly rare and extraordinarily expensive and b) already open for serving. The thought that goes through my head is: “Is that really what I think it is?”
Vinous Table: Xaya, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France
France, Vinous Table
, Oct 2019
If you are taking a vacation in Biarritz or Saint-Jean-de-Luz, make a reservation at Xaya. One mouthful is all it takes to understand why their tables are in such demand.
Beaujolais: If You Want Value - You’ve Got It
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured
, Oct 2019
While prices for French wines with historic pedigree are often dramatically rising, Beaujolais, for the most part, continues to provide a respite from an overheated market. That, plus a string of recent vintages with average quality level ranging from very good to outstanding, makes Beaujolais one of the most intriguing regions in the world for savvy wine lovers.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Oct 2019
I had never tasted a bottle from the era of Charles’s grandfather, Robert Arnoux, whose passing in 1995 led to his son-in-law taking over. But this bottle revealed a connection between Robert Arnoux and Charles Lachaux’s approach to winemaking.
A Century - Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Oct 2019
In December last year, Château Talbot celebrated a century of ownership by the Cordier family with a vertical tasting at the property. This article assesses the vintages and where they place Talbot in the Saint-Julien hierarchy as a new chapter opens.
Vinous Table: Zoko Moko, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France
France, Vinous Table
, Oct 2019
I looked forward to Zoko Moko more than any other restaurant during my time in the Pays Basque. Many had sung its praises, and eating out in Saint-Jean-de-Luz is always a pleasure.