Vinous Table, Italy
Ca d’Oro, known locally as Alla Vedova, is one of Venice’s most historic osterias. Located in the trendy Cannaregio sestriere, Ca d’Oro is famous for its polpette, an absolutely iconic dish, and one of the main reasons why locals and tourists flock here.
General Declarations of Vintage Port tend to be spread three or four per decade and never successively. But hot on the heels of the fêted 2016 arrive their 2017 counterparts. What kind of growing season prompted this unprecedented move and do these latest releases offer something different?
France: Champagne, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
The 2014 Brut Nature Les Hautes Blanches Vignes is the first wine I have tasted from Christophe Baron’s new project in Champagne, and it is magnificent.
France, Vinous Table
L’Ancrage, in Saint-Malo’s very pretty old town, is nobody’s idea of a snooty dining destination, and that sits perfectly fine with the restaurant’s patrons, who flock to it in droves, happy in the knowledge that they will eat and drink well for a song.
featured, Italy: Piedmont
Although Barolo, Barbaresco, and, more recently, Alto Piemonte get the lion’s share of attention, Piedmont has so much to offer beyond those highly-regarded appellations. Dolcetto, Barbera, Freisa, Timorasso and a host of other indigenous varieties give consumers myriad options for discovering the breadth of diversity that makes Piedmont one of the world’s most dynamic regions.
France: Burgundy, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
Tireless work in the vineyards and a lighter hand in the winery have enabled Jean-Louis Trapet to restore his family’s estate to greatness in the 21st century. This remarkable vertical tasting of the flagship Chambertin encompassed most of the vintages made under Jean-Louis Trapet’s tenure, along with a handful of older gems from the Trapet family’s cellar.
This is an album of grandeur, whose grooves can barely contain the lush, dramatic and cinematic sound that sweeps you off your feet.
Austria, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
Pichler’s 2006 Riesling Smaragd Unendlich (the name translates to ‘unending’) is one of the most remarkable wines – white or red – I have tasted in a long time.
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
Filhot is among the largest and grandest estates in Sauternes, yet over many years of experience, its wines often pose as many questions as answers. Would visiting the estate, plus a vertical tasting stretching back decades, alter my opinion?
Vinous Table, Denmark
Hip and magically located right on the water, Studio at the Standard is routinely voted one of Denmark’s five best restaurants. Absolutely nothing about my latest visit leads me to believe such fame is undeserved.