Remembering Renato Vacca
Italy: Piedmont, Vinous Remembers, featured
, Mar 2020
I was deeply saddened to learn of the recent passing of Renato Vacca at just 51. Painfully shy and introverted, Vacca crafted gorgeous wines that capture all the pedigree nestled within the striking hillside vineyards of Barbaresco. He will be sorely missed by everyone who knew him and all those who his wines touched.
Vinous Table: Via Forno, Scarsdale, New York
Vinous Table, United States: New York
, Mar 2020
Via Forno is one of my local pizza joints. Despite the somber outlook, the staff at Via Forno has been upbeat on the few times I have been there recently. I am looking forward to going back when things eventually come back to something resembling normalcy.
Roses de Jeanne La Bolorée Retrospective
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Champagne
, Mar 2020
"What would you like to taste?” Cédric Bouchard asks as we descend into his cellar. We are in the middle of a brutal heat wave in France. The cool cellar provides a much-needed break from the unrelenting heat. “Really, whatever you want,” Bouchard says, sensing my apprehension as I gaze at a stunning collection of bottles, but not wanting to ask for too much….
In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Mar 2020
Continuing my series of profiles in Saint-Julien, it’s time to take a look at Branaire-Ducru, including history, winemaking practices, tasting notes and its connection with one of Roald Dahl’s most famous short stories.
Cellar Favorite: 1933 Domaine René Engel Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2020
Sometimes you encounter a bottle so old and rare that your immediate reaction is one of knowing that you will never taste it again. This bottle came from a renowned private cellar and was poured blind by a generous friend at Bistro de l’Hôtel.
Vinous Table: NoMad, New York City
Vinous Table
, Mar 2020
I have been to NoMad many times, but most of the times to host Vinous events in one of the private rooms. I was really looking forward to this dinner in the main dining room as a brief distraction during what has become a very rough time around the world.
The Many Different Chiles of Chile
featured, Chile
, Mar 2020
This is a turbulent period in the history of Chile. The entire country is debating the prospect of a new constitution, which would represent an inflection point between one era and another. These changing times affect the wine industry as much as any other, since, like all cultural products, wine is a reflection of its political, social and economic context. The Chilean wine industry is also undergoing a transformation. But here, unlike the political situation, it’s nothing but good news. That was my first reflection after tasting over 700 wines on a two-week trip across the country...
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Beyond Wine: Album Review of The Slow Rush - Tame Impala
Beyond Wine
, Mar 2020
“The Slow Rush” took five years to see the light of day, though Parker apparently recorded the tracks in a period of frenzied activity in recent months. The soundscape is so enormous that you almost have to listen to this hour-long opus in separate sittings.
Venica & Venica Friulano Collio Ronco delle Cime 1990–2017
featured, Italy: North
, Mar 2020
Venica’s Ronco delle Cime is one of Italy’s benchmark Friulanos. Sleek and refined, it ages well, never losing its crisp, juicy character and food-friendly personality.
Cellar Favorite: 2017 Hatzidakis Winery Cuvée No. 15 Assyrtiko
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Greece
, Mar 2020
Am I an expert in Greek wine? Regrettably, I am not. But I do know when I’m face to face with a wine that exudes brilliance. This bottle was kindly opened during a long-overdue visit to The Arches, the legendary restaurant/wine bar in Swiss Cottage, London.