Italy: Piedmont, Vinous Remembers, featured
I was deeply saddened to learn of the recent passing of Renato Vacca at just 51. Painfully shy and introverted, Vacca crafted gorgeous wines that capture all the pedigree nestled within the striking hillside vineyards of Barbaresco. He will be sorely missed by everyone who knew him and all those who his wines touched.
Vinous Table, United States: New York
Via Forno is one of my local pizza joints. Despite the somber outlook, the staff at Via Forno has been upbeat on the few times I have been there recently. I am looking forward to going back when things eventually come back to something resembling normalcy.
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Champagne
"What would you like to taste?” Cédric Bouchard asks as we descend into his cellar. We are in the middle of a brutal heat wave in France. The cool cellar provides a much-needed break from the unrelenting heat. “Really, whatever you want,” Bouchard says, sensing my apprehension as I gaze at a stunning collection of bottles, but not wanting to ask for too much….
France: Bordeaux, featured
Continuing my series of profiles in Saint-Julien, it’s time to take a look at Branaire-Ducru, including history, winemaking practices, tasting notes and its connection with one of Roald Dahl’s most famous short stories.
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Sometimes you encounter a bottle so old and rare that your immediate reaction is one of knowing that you will never taste it again. This bottle came from a renowned private cellar and was poured blind by a generous friend at Bistro de l’Hôtel.
I have been to NoMad many times, but most of the times to host Vinous events in one of the private rooms. I was really looking forward to this dinner in the main dining room as a brief distraction during what has become a very rough time around the world.
This is a turbulent period in the history of Chile. The entire country is debating the prospect of a new constitution, which would represent an inflection point between one era and another. These changing times affect the wine industry as much as any other, since, like all cultural products, wine is a reflection of its political, social and economic context. The Chilean wine industry is also undergoing a transformation. But here, unlike the political situation, it’s nothing but good news. That was my first reflection after tasting over 700 wines on a two-week trip across the country...
“The Slow Rush” took five years to see the light of day, though Parker apparently recorded the tracks in a period of frenzied activity in recent months. The soundscape is so enormous that you almost have to listen to this hour-long opus in separate sittings.
featured, Italy: North
Venica’s Ronco delle Cime is one of Italy’s benchmark Friulanos. Sleek and refined, it ages well, never losing its crisp, juicy character and food-friendly personality.
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Greece
Am I an expert in Greek wine? Regrettably, I am not. But I do know when I’m face to face with a wine that exudes brilliance. This bottle was kindly opened during a long-overdue visit to The Arches, the legendary restaurant/wine bar in Swiss Cottage, London.