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California Vineyard Series: Kamen Vineyard

California Vineyard Series, United States: California, featured

Antonio Galloni, May 2021

With its undulating hills and striking contours, Kamen is one of the most evocative estates in Sonoma. The vineyard is just a short drive from the town square, yet it feels very remote. Screenwriter Robert Mark Kamen bought his property in 1980, mostly for the views, as he tells it. “I had just sold the screenplay for The Karate Kid and I wanted to celebrate,” Kamen told me recently.

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Cellar Favorite: 2011 Cupano Brunello di Montalcino

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Italy: Tuscany

Eric Guido, Apr 2021

After the tragic passing of proprietor Lionel Cousin, I found myself digging through my cellar for past vintages of his lovely creation, the Cupano Brunello di Montalcino.

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Vinous Table: Brat x Climpson’s Arch, Hackney, United Kingdom

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, Apr 2021

Rejoice! Restaurants in the UK are (sort of) open again. I could not have chosen a more perfect reintroduction to fine dining.

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Rheingau and Mittelrhein 2018s: Mixed Riesling Results

Germany, featured

David Schildknecht, Apr 2021

The challenges posed by summer drought and sheer precocity of vine evolution are evident in the Rheingau and Mittelrhein, but there are numerous wines that no Riesling lovers should miss.

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Marking Milestones with Moulin Touchais

France: Loire, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured

Rebecca Gibb MW, Apr 2021

In search of something to drink to mark a milestone birthday, those of us with a less-than-legendary birth year are resigned to the fact that our first breath did not coincide with the perfect growing season in Bordeaux. Revealing your date of birth to châteaux owners keen to open a special bottle often leads to a pitying shrug of the shoulders and a gallic ‘Bof’ when you disclose your parents poorly timed your entry to the world. But there’s hope for us yet: an underground cellar in a small Loire Valley town could be the answer to that elusive anniversary bottle that doesn’t require you to remortgage your house simply to mark a special date in the diary.

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Cellar Favorite: 2004 Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Italy: Tuscany

Eric Guido, Apr 2021

Having just celebrated its fifteenth birthday, I thought it was about time to check in on the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino from Poggio Il Castellare, an estate from the southeast that I associate with suave character and dark ripe fruits.

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Album Review of Dry Cleaning – New Long Leg

Beyond Wine

Neal Martin, Apr 2021

The first time I heard of Dry Cleaning was when I caught Scratchcard Lanyard on BBC Radio 6, the title alone alerting me to something different, two unconnected words co-habiting a title that is totally meaningless and yet…scratchcard lanyard…yes, they belong together. It sticks in your head.

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Rioja: The Past Is Always Present

featured, Spain

Josh Raynolds, Apr 2021

Change comes slowly in Rioja. Many of the winemaking practices that were in place when the region was established in the third quarter of the 19th century are widely used today. Grapes are pressed traditionally and most of the best wines are aged, sometimes for many years, in oak barrels of various sizes, with a preference towards American oak. Many winemakers see oxidation during aging as an asset, not a flaw, that when done correctly, brings the unique perfume, complex flavors and supple texture that make serious Rioja among the world’s greatest wines.

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Remembering Pio Boffa

featured, Vinous Remembers

Antonio Galloni, Apr 2021

The news came over the weekend. It was not unexpected, but shocking just the same. Pio Boffa had succumbed to COVID-19 after a two-week battle in the hospital the texts said. And with that, Piedmont had lost another reference point.

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Cellar Favorite: 2018 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Célébration

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Apr 2021

A few years ago, I was fortunate to attend an evening tasting of ancient vintages from Louis Jadot reserves, a cornucopia of rare bottles stretching back to the 1860s.