1945

Cellar Favorites: 1945, 1966 & 1982 Gruaud Larose

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, Dec 2018

I recently participated in two tastings connected with one of the most famous dynasties in Bordeaux: the Cordier family. Désiré Cordier embarked on a shopping spree for Bordeaux estates in that era, when real estate prices were depressed by a run of poor vintages and World War I. Amongst Cordier’s acquisitions, the other famous property purchased is Gruaud Larose, which came into their hands in 1917 and 1935, since back then, the estate was divided.

Fieuzal 1970 bottle

Cellar Favorite: 1970 Château de Fieuzal Rouge

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, Dec 2018

Old bottles of Graves have been regrettably few and far between. When I do encounter mature Graves from the 1940s and the 1970s, they always remind me how well they age, how their qualities are overlooked vis-à-vis other Bordeaux appellations.

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Cellar Favorite: 1990 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Piedmont, Italy: Piedmont

Antonio Galloni, Nov 2018

The 1990 Barbaresco Costa Russi brings back a rush of memories from a tasting that feels like it happened just yesterday. Time has been exceedingly kind to the 1990.

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Cellar Favorite: 2002 Luciano Sandrone Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Piedmont, Italy: Piedmont

Antonio Galloni, Nov 2018

Through severe cropping and selection, Sandrone made a Valmaggiore in 2002 that is truly eye opening.

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Cellar Favorite: 1955 Cantina Mascarello Barolo

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Italy: Piedmont

Antonio Galloni, Oct 2018

What a thrill it is to taste Cantina Mascarello’s 1955 Barolo from a perfectly stored and cared for bottiglione, a traditional Piedmontese large format that is no longer used.

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Cellar Favorite: 2005 & 1995 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon

featured, United States: California, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Antonio Galloni, Oct 2018

Mayacamas continues to make striking wines under its new ownership. In addition to a host of current and upcoming releases (covered in my forthcoming Napa Valley report) I also had a chance to revisit two Cabernets from the estate’s library.

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Cellar Favorite: Domaine Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée Cros-Parantoux 1er Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, Oct 2018

It is now almost impossible to separate myth from reality with respect to Henri Jayer. It has almost become an existential domaine, as if Jayer never made mortal fermented grape juice. Prices are irrational, and yet the wealthiest wave blank chequebooks in the air at auction, feverish demand fuelled by the fact that fewer and fewer bottles will come onto market as time goes by. Domaine Henri Jayer is rarely seen. It is even more rarely consumed.

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Cellar Favorite: 1979 Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Antonio Galloni, Oct 2018

In 1979, the flagship Rubicon was just in its second vintage. Tasted recently just shy of its 40th birthday, the 1979 is fabulous, with scents of dried cherry, iron, underbrush, mint, tobacco and menthol gracing a lithe, mid-weight frame. Absolutely impeccable in its balance, the 1979 has aged beautifully.

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Cellar Favorite: 1955 Domaine Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins

France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Neal Martin, Sep 2018

Amongst the constellation of rare bottles that I have tasted over the years, few approach the 1955 Réserve des Célestins from the late Henri Bonneau in terms of an unrepeatable experience at the hands of fermented grape juice. It is a wine that lies on the edge of existence: I have never seen another bottle at auction and have never seen a tasting note. But this bottle appeared without warning at an extraordinary Sunday lunch in West Hampstead, London.

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Cellar Favorite: 1991 Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

cellar favorite, France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites

Neal Martin, Sep 2018

Without a shadow of doubt, the 1991 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru will be one of the white wines of the year, epitomising everything wondrous about mature white Burgundy.