Chateau darche 1906

Cellar Favorite: 1906 Château d’Arche Crème de Tête

Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, Aug 2018

It seems difficult to believe now given the current state of the market, but Sauternes was the most sought-after and most expensive Bordeaux at the turn of the 20th century. This Cellar Favorite hails from that era, testament to the greatness and unerring longevity of Sauternes...and it does not have to begin with the 25th letter of the alphabet.

Cf   lanzerac

Cellar Favorites: Château Lanzerac: 1961 – 1968

South Africa, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite

Neal Martin, Aug 2018

During my recent visit to the Cape, I planned a lunch with Merchant Roland Peens. To my surprise, he munificently poured four bottles of Lanzerac Cabernet from the 1960s that he had recently acquired from a private cellar.

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Cellar Favorite: 1998 Fontodi Chianti Classico

Italy: Tuscany, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite

Antonio Galloni, Aug 2018

Fontodi’s 1998 Chianti Classico reminds me of why I love these wines so much. At age twenty, the 1998 is simply glorious, with plenty of dried cherry, tobacco, saddle leather, licorice, dried cedar and smoke overtones wrapped into a classic, mid-weight frame.

Cf gevrey rousseau 1985 copy

Cellar Favorite: 1985 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin

France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite

Neal Martin, Jul 2018

Recently, my friend Dan Keeling, co-owner of “Noble Rot” restaurant in London, called to ask whether he should take a punt on a bottle of Rousseau’s 1985 Gevrey-Chambertin that had been perfectly stored since release. He told me the price. No denying it was extortion for a village wine...but not insulting. In the back of mind, I contemplated how well some of those villages performed at Tour d’Argent back in January. Why not give it a go? A few weeks later I met up with Dan and he generously popped open that very bottle. Thankfully it confirmed my view that grower and in particular, provenance, can transcend vineyard site and thereby save you a lot of wallet heartache. It was so divine that we both agreed that it cast doubt on the benefits of trading up to a Premier or Grand Cru.

Deuxieme vin margaux 1900

Cellar Favorite: 1900 Château Margaux Deuxième Vin

France: Bordeaux, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite

Neal Martin, Jul 2018

The wine was astonishing in so many ways, not least, in prosaic terms, how damn delicious it remains. Tasting it blind, nobody had any inkling of its age until the bottle was revealed with its slightly torn Pillet-Will label, owners at the time. My mind began imagining what the Grand Vin must taste like. One day, I hope, one day...

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Cellar Favorite: 1995 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero

Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite, Italy: Piedmont

Antonio Galloni, Jul 2018

Fratelli Alessandria’s 1995 Barolo Monvigliero provides a fascinating look into an early wine from an estate that has joined the ranks of the elite in recent years. Nineteen ninety-five is also a vintage that is really peaking today, with a number of wines showing better than they ever have.

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Cellar Favorite: 1988 Domaine Gentaz-Dervieux Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune

Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite, France: Rhône & Beaujolais

Neal Martin, Jul 2018

The Rhône is not my specialty, but that does not preclude me from enjoying its wines. Indeed, some of the greatest bottles I have ever drunk have hailed not from Bordeaux or Burgundy, but the Rhône. This Cellar Favorite focuses on a bygone producer shrouded in mystique, a producer whose wines are now some of the most sought after in the world and with prices to match: Domaine Gentaz-Dervieux.

Laville haut brion

Cellar Favorites: Laville Haut-Brion

Verticals & Retrospectives, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, Jul 2018

Most wine-lovers suffer a sense of loss and enter a period of mourning, whenever a producer such as Gentaz-Dervieux ceases to exist. Even a change in name can bring out the black armbands and black veils. Perhaps the most well known are Château La Tour Haut-Brion and its white counterpart, Laville Haut-Brion. Prompted by a recent thread on Your Say, the Vinous subscriber forum, this Cellar Favorite takes a brief look at a dozen or so mature vintages of Laville Haut-Brion, mostly from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s.

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Cellar Favorite: 1955 Château Latour

Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite, France: Bordeaux

Antonio Galloni, Jun 2018

From the moment it is opened and served, the 1955 Latour is simply regal. Floral and remarkably bright for a wine of its age, the 1955 offers a level of pure seduction that is hard to capture with words.

Coutet 1937 bottle

Cellar Favorite: 1937 Château Coutet

Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite

Neal Martin, Jun 2018

There are few elixirs that equal mature Sauternes or Barsac. The 1937 Château Coutet made a huge impression when it completed a bibulous dinner in Bordeaux.