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Don’t Rain on My Parade: Mâconnais 2019/2020
France: Burgundy, featured
, Nov 2021
Mâconnais has experienced highs this year with its first Premier Crus and lows in terms of devastating frost and hail. Although I could not author a full write-up during my two days there in June, this report covers 2019s and 2020s from some of the region’s finest producers.
Chablis’ Satellites: Irancy & Saint-Bris
France: Burgundy, featured
, Nov 2021
Irancy and Saint-Bris are both located within close ambit of Chablis. Rather than lump them in with Chablis, I chose to author a separate report, since the wines are fundamentally different and moreover, well-deserving of focus.
Cellar Favorite: 1995 Haut-Brion
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2021
The 1995 Bordeaux vintage is one that I would like to revisit more often. It has not been forgotten about. After all, it was one of the most celebrated vintages of the decade, but it has been side-lined by subsequent growing seasons.
Cellar Favorite: 1949 Malartic-Lagravière
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2021
Mature bottles of Château Malartic-Lagravière are rarely seen, and sadly the Bonnie family, proprietors of the château in Léognan, have few bottles in the cellar themselves. The 1949 Malartic-Lagravière came from a stash of six cases cellared in Switzerland that were sold back to the château.
Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020
France: Burgundy, featured
, Oct 2021
There is a quiet revolution underway in beautiful, tranquil Chablis as more young winemakers enter the region and growers aspire to greater heights. The 2019 and 2020 vintages have much to offer, not least for those priced out of the Côte d'Or and wondering where to get their white Burgundy fix.
Cellar Favorite: 1964, 1971 and 1974 Domaine Couly-Dutheil Chinon
France: Loire, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2021
During my June stay in Burgundy, I visited a friend in Beaune for supper. Rather than pouring Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, he served exceptional mature Loire wines from his personal cellar that all made a big impression.
2019 Burgundy – Further Additions
France: Burgundy, featured
, Oct 2021
After a taxing day’s tasting and heated discussion about the 2017s at Burgfest, I jumped in my car and visited two or three producers that I was unable to see last year after my autumn trip was curtailed by the lockdown.
Vinous Table: The River Café, London, UK
United Kingdom, Vinous Table
, Oct 2021
How long must a restaurant exist before it becomes an institution? The River Café is the paradigmatic restaurant institution. People know it even if they have never eaten there nor ever will.
Cellar Favorite: Domaines Delon: Recent Cellar Releases
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2021
There is a growing trend for châteaux to keep a proportion of their stock for late releases, the two most notable being Palmer and Léoville Las-Cases. I recently tasted vintages of 2011 from Jean-Hubert Delon’s stable.
Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2021
The 2001 Sauternes were hailed on release. But at 20 years of age, do they match the hype? This report answers that question and like Stanley Kubrick's 2001: A Space Odyssey, poses more.