Refusing to Follow the Script: Jean-Marie Guffens
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Feb 2020
The outspoken Jean-Marie Guffens has spent almost four decades making superb Mâconnais wines. This retrospective would always be entertaining. But what do Blade Runner and Pink Floyd have to do with it?
Cellar Favorite: 1949 Château Figeac
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2020
My admiration for recent vintages of Château Figeac is clear for everyone to read. Winemaker Frédéric Faye has done a fantastic job in recent years.
Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jan 2020
A surprise late spring frost was not the greatest start to the Bordeaux 2017 vintage, and unexpected import tariffs meant that the wines hit the shelves in an uncertain market. Despite all this, the vintage contains pleasant surprises. They just need to find homes.
Cellar Favorite: 1945 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2020
I LOVE HALF-BOTTLES! Phew, it feels good to come clean. I am well aware how everyone bangs on about magnums as the optimal format for maturing wine. Received wisdom is that half-bottles cannot age. Rubbish! Go and taste a few.
Vinous Table: Wheeler’s Oyster Bar, Kent, United Kingdom
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Jan 2020
Is Wheelers worth the schlep down from London? Well, if you want outstanding seafood without paying a king’s ransom, then certainly.
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Beyond Wine: Album Review of Mogadisco - Dancing Mogadishu Somalia 1972-1991 - Various Artists
Beyond Wine
, Jan 2020
Mogadisco - Dancing Mogadishu (Somalia 1972-1991) is a considerable achievement for Samy Ben Redjeb, and the mere fact that this compilation exists is thanks to people like Colonel Ali, who risked his life to protect the recordings for so many years.
Resurrecting the Mystery: Clos Joliette
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Other
, Jan 2020
There are few enigmas left in wine. The Internet can tell you anything about everything. However, Clos Joliette, the most revered producer in the Jurançon, remains shrouded in mystery and intrigue. This article sheds light on its history and its present status, as well as examining recent releases.
Cellar Favorite: 1924 Château Filhot
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2020
Recently I encountered a bottle of 1924 Filhot, the oldest example that I have tasted, and it proved that Filhot can create a wonderful, life-affirming, vibrant and downright delicious Sauternes that effortlessly defies time.
Cellar Favorite: 1957 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2020
Over the last two decades I have visited practically all the major domaines in the Côte d’Or. There is one glaring and unforgivable omission: Ramonet.
Vinous Table: The Black Bull, Sedbergh, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Jan 2020
Restaurants such as The Black Bull play a crucial role in attracting tourists and epicures to less-traveled parts of the country, and reasonable prices mean that you are not breaking the bank for either food or wine.