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Mâconnais 2016 and 2015: Dealing with the Elements

featured, France: Burgundy

Stephen Tanzer, Nov 2017

Following the drought vintage of 2015 and its atypically rich but sometimes unwieldy wines, 2016 yielded fresh, pure, aromatic wines that should offer considerable early pleasure. But concentration levels vary widely in ’16, as a severe late-April hailstorm had a major impact on vine yields in much of the southern Mâconnais.

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Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2017

featured, France: Bordeaux, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Nov 2017

I was delighted to once again participate in the Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival, which is held every October in Toronto. Grand Cru attracts many of the biggest names in food and wine for a weekend-long series of events, tastings and dinners, all held to benefit the Toronto General & Western Hospital Foundation. The highlight of Grand Cru takes place on Saturday night, when thirty couples host some of the world’s most acclaimed chefs and vintners in their homes for a series of intimate dinners. This dinner raised an astounding C$1.2m for charity.

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Cellar Favorite: 2002 Domaine Dujac Clos de La Roche

France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites

Antonio Galloni, Oct 2017

Dujac’s 2002 Clos de La Roche is exceptionally beautiful, especially on the palate, where the wine is silky, sensual and vivid. Ripe tannins and seamless fruit give the 2002 much of its allure. Even so, the 2002 is incredibly young and undeveloped. The aromatics that are usually such a big part of this wine’s personality still need quite a bit of time in bottle to develop fully. Readers lucky enough to own the 2002 will want to wait at least a few more years.

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Cellar Favorite: 1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche – Grand Cru

France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites

Antonio Galloni, Oct 2017

This is a fabulous bottle of the 1978 La Tâche. Powerful and driven in feel, with searing acidity, the 1978 is quite expressive.

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2016 & 2015 White Burgundy

featured, France: Burgundy

Stephen Tanzer, Sep 2017

It was quality over quantity in 2016, as a fraught growing season with sharply reduced production appears to have produced charming, aromatically appealing wines that will give early pleasure. The best 2015s are denser, deeper and more serious but rarely show the austerity of wines from more classic high-acid years.

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Cellar Favorite: 2002 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites

Antonio Galloni, Sep 2017

Raveneau’s 2002 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre is gorgeous. Rich, oily and beautifully textured on the palate, the 2002 shows all the depth that is typical of the year.

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Domaine Armand Rousseau: Chambertin 1988 - 2002

featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Aug 2017

This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested.

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Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity

featured, France: Burgundy

Stephen Tanzer, Aug 2017

Extreme weather conditions vexed growers in Chablis in 2016 and 2015, but both vintages produced many very good to excellent wines that avoid the tooth-rattling acidity and forbidding austerity of examples from more classic years. Today the 2016s appear to be more transparent to their terroirs but the best ‘15s may surprise us with their vineyard specificity after they’ve had a chance to burn off some of their considerable baby fat.

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Cellar Favorite: 2001 Armand Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze

France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites

Antonio Galloni, Jul 2017

Rousseau’s 2001 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze offers stunning aromatics and striking purity of fruit, along with notable brightness, especially for a wine of its age. Silky, gracious and super-polished, the 2001 is drinking well today, although ideally it could use a few more years in bottle to shed some tannin. Even so, the 2001 is utterly captivating today.

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Cellar Favorite: 1999 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Clos de Vougeot

France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites

Ian D'Agata, Jun 2017

Hudelot-Noëllat is one of my favorite Burgundy domaines, as I love their highly refined, almost ethereal style of red Burgundy. The domaine was run for roughly thirty years by Alain Hudelot-Noëllat, who stepped down in 2008 and handed over the stewardship of the domaine to his grandson Charles van Canneyt.