1652 Stockton St.
San Francisco, CA 94133
Sunchokes; creamy barissa, lemon zest
Albacore tuna; marinated eggplant, kohlrabi, black olive oil
Noir’; black truffle, butter braised baby spinach, roasted peeve potatoes
Francisco is one of my favorite cities in the US. Although I travel through San
Francisco a number of times each year, I rarely get to spend as much time there
as I would like. This fabulous dinner with friends was a poignant reminder I
need to spend more time exploring the city’s culinary delights.
Tavern offers an attractive combination of American classics mixed with French
influences in a casual, informal setting. Chef Jennifer Puccio’s food is exuberant,
bold and utterly irresistible. A well-chosen, somewhat eccentric collection of
wines forms the backbone of the list curated by Beverage Director Casey Doolin.
shared appetizers are all delicious, especially the Brussels Sprouts chips,
which are a pleasant surprise. Fried sunchoke and charred albacore tuna placate
our hunger, but only momentarily. They, too, disappear pretty instantly. The
flavors are intense, layered and deeply satisfying. The highlight of the
evening is without question the signature Poulet Noir, which is off the charts.
Cooked upright and served in a screaming hot cast-iron pan with baby spinach,
roasted potatoes and black truffle jus, the poulet is one of the most singular,
delicious and compelling dishes I have had all year. The perfectly cooked
chicken and black truffles are to die for. I would gladly return for round 2.
Chardonnays are fascinating to taste side-by-side. The 2010 Chardonnay
Estate from Mount Eden has really begun to find its minerality over the
last few months. Initially a bit bombastic, today the 2010 presents a much more
classic and typical expression of the house style. The 2010 is striking for its
energy and pure salinity. What a gorgeous wine. Antoine Jobard’s 2009
Meursault En la Barre shows the generous quality of the year in its
succulent, open personality. Layers of rich, yellow-fleshed fruit emerge from a
gracious Meursault that is drinking beautifully right now.
is the master of Marsannay. His Casses-Têtes is one of my
personal favorites. The 2009 is striking in its weightless personality
and gorgeous balance. Domaine de la Côte’s 2011 Pinot Noir Bloom’s Field has
developed beautifully since I last tasted it a few months ago. Now that it has
had a little more time in bottle, the 2011 is balanced, harmonious and
drop-dead gorgeous. This is a fabulous expression of Santa Rita Hills Pinot in
a cool, racy vintage.
wine is the 2011 Syrah Clary Ranch from Arnot-Roberts, which is just as
beautiful from bottle as it was from barrel. Savory, perfumed and exceptionally
refined, the 2011 graces the palate with total class. The 2011 is a bit
ethereal and fleeting, but very pretty nonetheless.
visiting San Francisco should check out Park Tavern. The food, wine and service
are all top-notch, while the informal ambience is warm and welcoming.