York, NY 10013
Tel. + 1 (212) 219 2777
Fall Green Salad; Crosnes, Chervil,
Pine Nuts, Roasted Carrot-Champagne Vinaigrette
Yellowfin Tuna; Toasted Quinoa,
Soy, German Sesame Oil
Celeriac Agnolotti; Castelmagno
Cheese, Spicy Cashew, Apple
Fennel Tagliatelle; Smoked Sturgeon,
Roasted Cod; Hungarian Paprika,
Clams, Mussels, Eggplant
Brandt Beef Short Rib; Black Pepper
Streusel, Grilled Wagyu Beef Tongue, Polenta
1976 Taittinger Comtes de
2011 Domaine Mugnier Nuits St.-
Georges Clos de la Marechale – 1er Cru
1985 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet
Les Demoiselles – Grand Cru
1985 Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes
Chambertin – Clos des Ruchottes – Grand Cru
2007 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis Séchet – 1er Cru
Bâtard has quickly become one of my
favorite spots in New York City. Chef Markus Glocker’s unique brand of comfort
food hits all the right notes, while the room is warm and welcoming. Two recent dinners were fabulous. For the sake of simplicity, I have combined both dinners here.
Green Salad; Crosnes, Chervil, Pine Nuts, Roasted Carrot-Champagne Vinaigrette
Readers may remember this space on
West Broadway, in the heart of Tribeca, as the former home of Montrachet and
Corton. But Bâtard has a personality of its own. The ambience is informal, with
the look and feel of a contemporary urban bistro. An occasional accent from Glocker’s native Austria comes through in cuisine that is precise
and beautifully executed, but
never ponderous or self-absorbed. This is food you want to revel in. The menu
is offered in three versions: $58/2 courses, $72/3 courses or $82/4 courses. In
addition to running the front of the house, Managing Partner Jonathan Winterman
oversees a fabulous cheese selection that goes above and beyond what one might
expect at this level.
Tuna; Toasted Quinoa, Soy, German Sesame Oil
The fall green salad is a typical Bâtard dish. Deceptively simple, the
salad is bright, fresh and just plain delicious. The greens taste as if they
just came out of the garden. Another highlight, the yellowfina tuna appetizer is sublime. Taittinger’s 1976 Comtes de Champagne is rich,
resonant and vinous, with all of the intensity that is typical of a vintage remembered for its drought conditions. Although this bottle is a touch forward, well-stored bottles
should continue to drink well for at least a few more years.
Celeriac Agnolotti; Castelmagno Cheese, Spicy Cashew, Apple
Both of our pastas are terrific. If
I have one critique, it is that the portions of the filled pastas are always a
bit light at Bâtard. Our celeriac agnolotti disappear pretty quickly. Bold, lusty
flavors are the signatures in the fennel tagliatelle, smoked sturgeon, caviar
and Pernod, a rich pasta that can stand up to richer whites or even lighter reds.
Fennel Tagliatelle; Smoked Sturgeon, Caviar, Pernod
What a pleasure
it is to drink Mugnier’s 2011 Nuits St.-Georges
Clos de la Marechale Blanc. Now with a few years in bottle, the 2011 has
begun to soften and open up, making it a delicious wine for the dinner
table. Jadot’s 1985 Chevalier-Montrachet
Les Demoiselles is exotic and floral at the outset, with gorgeous depth and
freshness for a wine of its age. The 1985 fades a bit with air, but it is totally
sublime and striking just the same.
Roasted Cod; Hungarian Paprika, Clams, Mussels, Eggplant
Medallions of roasted cod with Hungarian
paprika, clams, mussels, and eggplant is a perfect winter dish that pairs
beautifully with our wines. The beef short rib is tasty, but just a bit dry
for my taste.
Brandt Beef Short Rib; Black Pepper Streusel, Grilled Wagyu Beef Tongue, Polenta
Rousseau’s 1985 Ruchottes
Chambertin – Clos des Ruchottes is everything mature Burgundy should be.
Crushed flowers, orange peel, mint, star anise and rose petal notes lift
effortlessly from the glass. Although the 1985 is fully mature, it also retains
a gorgeous freshness that gives it a sense of timeless elegance. Silky,
polished tannins add to the wine’s considerable allure. It’s as if time is
standing still. What a gorgeous wine this is.
Cheese is a serious matter at Bâtard.
There is no better way to finish off these bottles than with a sampling of the
cart. Dauvissat’s 2007 Chablis Séchet is a tasty Burgundy with just enough
bottle age to offer lovely complexity to complement the cheeses. It is one of
the under the radar jewels on Head Sommelier Jason Jacobeit’s list. Slate,
crushed rocks, citrus and a host of Riesling-inflected overtones grace this
exquisite, deeply expressive Chablis from Vincent Dauvissat.
Over the last year Bâtard has
earned plenty of accolades, all of them richly deserved. Readers who have an
opportunity to enjoy a meal at Bâtard should not hesitate, as the food, wine and
service are all top notch.
-- Antonio Galloni