1995 Willi Schaefer Graacher Dombprost Riesling Beerenauslese
Wine lovers everywhere are always on the lookout for Willi Schaefer’s wines, as he is rightly considered one of the greatest in the game at producing amazingly pure and refined Mosel Rieslings.
However, the estate only joined the ranks of the ultra-famous when Willi Schaefer took over his family’s small estate in 1971. Today, Willi’s son Christoph, runs the estate together with his wife Andrea, but this 1995 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Beerenauslese is all Willi. Of the roughly four hectares owned by the Schaefer family, roughly half of are in the Domprobst vineyard, the name of which is derived from the Provost Catherdral in Trier (Domprobost), which prior to Naploeon’s arrival, received one third of then 10% tax that was levied upon Graach citizens. The Domprobst is a very steep site richer in clay and lime than other Graach vineyards, such as the nearby Himmelreich, and has a warmer microclimate resulting in slightly larger broader wines. This 1995 Beerenauslese, apparently bottled with different fuder numbers (but this is the only 1995 I have tried) is a work of art, mesmerizingly pure, all lemon verbena and jasmine, with green apple and crystallized ginger echoes that linger memorably. The wine’s overall harmony and lively acidity suggest it will continue to drink well for many years. 92/Drink: 2016-2025
-- Ian D’Agata